Tehran
Tehran is a busy, modern metropolis. Here, the women wear the hejab with style and display thoughtfully manicured faces with strong brows and coveted nose jobs. The traffic is especially crazy because of the millions of people on 2 wheel contraptions travelling in all directions- and on the sidewalk. Curiously, my mosaferkhaneh (budget hotel) is found in the automobile accessories section of town nestled in amongst tyres and hubcaps. And although Iran is a dry country, I manage to attract all the “bad Muslims”- their term not mine- claiming they can get anything I like from their dealer...
Mashhad
Between days designated to deal with Pakistan visa bureaucracy I head to Mashhad- the holiest site in Iran and one of the holiest in the world for Muslims. I go there to visit the Holy Shrine of Imam Reza, and unbeknownst to me, it happens to be his birthday. In typical fashion I have accidentally stumbled into this amazing circumstance. Millions of Muslims have come to visit the shrine in Imam Reza’s honour. The complex itself is massive, consisting of numerous inner and outer courtyards encircling the shrine. Non-Muslims are only allowed in a select few of the outer courtyards. Donned in a black chador I am given a tour of these areas by the Foreign Pilgrims Assistance Office and learn the importance of this site. I spend about 3 hours visiting but I am fascinated by the whole experience and decide to go back the next day.
That morning, I discover my new friend from the bus waiting for me at my guesthouse. I find this slightly strange but figure “why not?” and allow him to take me back to the complex. He gives me more insight- especially regarding Shiite Muslims- and later finds an Iranian woman to take me in to the shrine...
Visiting the shrine is a great honour and words cannot fully express this experience. Shiite shrines are spectacular. Millions of pieces of mirror, coloured glass, and chandeliers reflect the light. At the very centre is the zarih- a gold latticed cage which covers the tomb. There is green lighting (color of Islam) and intricate detailing on the zarih, and of course a copy of the Quran on top of the sarcophagus. As is normal practice, there are separate entrances for men and women and the sheer number of women around the tomb is astonishing. I join the crush of people moving towards the tomb (not really an option at this point). All around me people are reciting phrases from the Quran; touching and kissing the doors, walls, and of course the zarih; and pushing money through the lattice cage to fall next to the tomb. These are acts similar to what you may know as repentance. Many of the women around me are weeping and the emotion in the air is overwhelming. Leaving the shrine area, the women walk out backwards as they say a final prayer facing the tomb. My visit to the Holy Shrine of Imam Reza is a powerful, once in a lifetime, unforgettable experience.
Update: Although I tried desperately to get a Pakistan visa it wasn’t meant to be. I suppose I will have to make do in.....Nepal! I have just arrived in Kathmandu but you won’t get to hear about it until I finish my Iran posts.
Thinking of home but happily abroad,
Carrie
Tehran- Souq entrance
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