Iran- Politics...Again

Before coming to Iran many people told me to keep my mouth shut regarding the government.  I tried, I really did, but I am fascinated by people’s opinions- especially in a place like Iran.  Never mind I seem to attract the rebels in the countries I visit :)

The opinions of people in Iran are diverse.  But by and large, most Iranians seem to have a strong dislike for their government.  Although Iran has an elected President (Ahmadinejad), he is essentially a puppet for the powerful Islamic leaders who make up the other branch of the government.  Imam Khamenei is the “Supreme Leader” of this branch of government.  He was not elected yet he essentially controls who are in the elected positions.  Imam means “religious leader” (remember Imam Reza from the first post). Many Iranians believe Imam Khamenei does not deserve this title (nor the previous Supreme Leader Imam Khomeini).  I find it laughable he could claim such a title when he funds terrorism with money that should go to the Iranian people, tries to propagate hate towards America and Israel, and suppresses the Iranian people in general.   During the uprising 2 yrs ago, he brought troops from other countries such as Syria and Lebanon to squash the revolt and threaten families.  I am told the people are afraid to demonstrate because their own government- run by a “holy” man- would not hesitate to authorize their murder.  So the question is: will there be a revolution in Iran?  In my opinion yes, but not any time soon.  There is a division between the older generations who say leave it alone and the younger generations who dream of the day they change the whole system.  There are some Iranians who say “show me a government that is perfect, it does not exist”.  Touché.

As I mentioned in my first post Iranians are the kindest people I have ever met.  They don’t deserve the stereotype associated with Iran nor the troubles their government creates.  One of the reasons I came to the Middle East was because I know in my heart we are all one and the same.  Many thanks to the Iranian people for confirming this.  Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie

Random things about my time in Iran:

• ·         I started with 5 pins (not safety pins, real pins) for my headscarf.  After 1 week I had lost them all.  Occasionally I still find one the hard way :)
•     In Iran the people speak Farsi but luckily there are some shared words that I recognize as Arabic, French and Turkish too.  For example, they say “merci”.  Easy enough. 
•            When riding the city bus, the ladies section is at the back.  You need to pay the driver and then walk to the back entrance to load the bus.  Ladies are not permitted to enter the front of the bus but can take seats in the mens section if the ladies section is full.  Once again women rule.
•       The highways are lined with pictures of martyrs from the Iran-Iraq war.
•       Hunks of metal barely discernable as vehicles are used as a deterrent for speeding.
•       My Air Arabia flights started with a pre-flight prayer.  Allah ahkbar...please protect us on this budget flight...Allah ahkbar.

Pictures in front of the former US Embassy now called the "US Den of Espionage".  The average Iranian is embarrased by these.  Notice the small Israeli flag...

This monstrosity is a shrine for Imam Khomeini.  Many feel a waste of money.

 Yet another random fire...This is normal and no cause for concern (really!?) 

At the airport...do you see what I see?

Iran Highlights- Part 2

After 2 weeks in Iran I begin to feel like I am ready to leave.  I am tired of wearing the hejab and slightly bored with the conservative society.  But during my 3^rd and final week I discover the gems of Iran which once again peak my interest.

Esfahan

Wow, I am speechless.  Esfahan has some of the most beautiful sights; the pictures do not do it justice.  The vibrant colors, the enormous structures, the geometric patterns, and a feeling like you have travelled back in time.  The city is saturated with history and the only reason I leave after 3 days is because my visa is about to expire.  That and the rock bottom budget hostel I stayed at meant sharing a 8ftx10ft floor with 3 guys.  I was afraid I would accidentally cuddle with one of them...

Shiraz  

The highlight of Shiraz is supposedly Persepolis, the ruins of an empire from 518 BC.  Impressive yes, but I am far more drawn to yet another Shiite shrine.  My mother will be the first to tell you I have always loved shiny things, so it is no wonder I love loitering inside Shiite shrines.  Unfortunately, taking pictures inside a shrine is usually taboo.  But there was one occasion in Yazd where I was able to, and although it didn’t hold a candle to most shrines I have seen, maybe you can get the gist (see below). 

At the end of my time in Iran I feel ready for my next adventure and a new flavour.  From the calm, conservative, polite society in Iran I do a complete 180 and throw myself into the craziness that is Kathmandu...Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie  

Jameh Mosque (notice the pics of Imam Khomeini and Imam Khamenei...they are everywhere)

 Sheikh Lotfallah Mosque

 Imam Mosque

Small Shiite shrine dedicaed to martyrs from Iran-Iraq war.  This is the zarih with tomb inside.

Iran Highlights- Part 1

Tehran

Tehran is a busy, modern metropolis.  Here, the women wear the hejab with style and display thoughtfully manicured faces with strong brows and coveted nose jobs.  The traffic is especially crazy because of the millions of people on 2 wheel contraptions travelling in all directions- and on the sidewalk.  Curiously, my mosaferkhaneh (budget hotel) is found in the automobile accessories section of town nestled in amongst tyres and hubcaps.  And although Iran is a dry country, I manage to attract all the “bad Muslims”- their term not mine- claiming they can get anything I like from their dealer...      

Mashhad

Between days designated to deal with Pakistan visa bureaucracy I head to Mashhad- the holiest site in Iran and one of the holiest in the world for Muslims.  I go there to visit the Holy Shrine of Imam Reza, and unbeknownst to me, it happens to be his birthday.  In typical fashion I have accidentally stumbled into this amazing circumstance.  Millions of Muslims have come to visit the shrine in Imam Reza’s honour.  The complex itself is massive, consisting of numerous inner and outer courtyards encircling the shrine.  Non-Muslims are only allowed in a select few of the outer courtyards.  Donned in a black chador I am given a tour of these areas by the Foreign Pilgrims Assistance Office and learn the importance of this site.  I spend about 3 hours visiting but I am fascinated by the whole experience and decide to go back the next day.

 That morning, I discover my new friend from the bus waiting for me at my guesthouse.  I find this slightly strange but figure “why not?” and allow him to take me back to the complex.  He gives me more insight- especially regarding Shiite Muslims- and later finds an Iranian woman to take me in to the shrine...

 Visiting the shrine is a great honour and words cannot fully express this experience.  Shiite shrines are spectacular.  Millions of pieces of mirror, coloured glass, and chandeliers reflect the light.  At the very centre is the zarih- a gold latticed cage which covers the tomb.  There is green lighting (color of Islam) and intricate detailing on the zarih, and of course a copy of the Quran on top of the sarcophagus.  As is normal practice, there are separate entrances for men and women and the sheer number of women around the tomb is astonishing.  I join the crush of people moving towards the tomb (not really an option at this point).  All around me people are reciting phrases from the Quran; touching and kissing the doors, walls, and of course the zarih; and pushing money through the lattice cage to fall next to the tomb.  These are acts similar to what you may know as repentance.  Many of the women around me are weeping and the emotion in the air is overwhelming.  Leaving the shrine area, the women walk out backwards as they say a final prayer facing the tomb.  My visit to the Holy Shrine of Imam Reza is a powerful, once in a lifetime, unforgettable experience.    

Update:  Although I tried desperately to get a Pakistan visa it wasn’t meant to be.  I suppose I will have to make do in.....Nepal!  I have just arrived in Kathmandu but you won’t get to hear about it until I finish my Iran posts. 

Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie

Tehran- Souq entrance

  Minaret

 Rey- Shrine for descendant of Imam Hossein

 Mashhad- Holy Shrine of Imam Reza (no cameras allowed in complex).  Gold dome is shrine.

 Mashhad- Masoleum

Iran's Image Problem

When you think about Iran, what comes to mind?  War, Muslim extremists, anti-Western sentiment, an oppressed female population?  Since arriving in Iran one stereotype after another has been shattered.  But the biggest shock has been how nice the people are.  I cannot count the number of times a total stranger has gone out of their way to guide me, advise me, feed me and even pay for an expense (taxi fare, bus fare, entrance fees....).  In fact, I have been adopted by an Iranian family... 

I arrive in Qazvin around 8pm from Tehran.  To my surprise all the guesthouses in my guidebook are full- or at least this is what I am told.  Unfortunately, single female travellers are not always welcome in cheap hotels.  I approach a man on the street and ask for his advice.  In broken English he says I can stay with him and his family.  I have heard of such invitations and gratefully accept his offer.  I arrive at his home where I meet his wife, son and mother.  They all fuss over me and I can’t understand what I have done to receive such kindness.  The next day I head to the mountains to visit a castle, come back to Qazvin to tour around, and finish by purchasing an overnight train ticket.  I arrive back at my Iranian family home and they are disappointed to hear I am leaving.  But they won’t let me go before they take me to visit the extended family including sisters, brothers, grandparents, aunts, uncles, nieces, nephews and friends of the family.  Although I am astounded at their generosity and interest in me, I am thankful I have my onward ticket because the attention becomes a bit too much.  I leave with 6 phone numbers I can call in case I get into any trouble...

What we have heard about Iran is definitely not a reflection of the people living there.  Many Iranians will agree they have an image problem as a result of their government.  The Islamic Republic came to power 33yrs ago and will be remembered for introducing Sharia Law and severing all ties with the USA.  These stifling laws and the anti-American sentiment are not welcomed by the majority.  The people themselves are incredibly honourable, decent and innocent.  I almost can’t believe such a place still exists in the world today, especially in a place as feared as Iran.

So, as I finish my time in Iran I hope all your worries have been put to rest.  I know many of you think I am crazy, but I am so glad I did not listen to the concerns of family and friends and instead honoured my you-can’t-tell-me-what-to-do nature.  Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie   

Palestinian Stathood

Palestinian State

Some of you know I have had a soft spot for Palestine long before coming to the Arab World.  Since my arrival I have met so many Palestinians who have shared their stories with me.   They are heartbreaking and frustrating because of the blatant injustice they have suffered.  Being here has given me the opportunity to gain a different (but still very elementary) perspective that I wanted to share with you...

 Imagine you are living side by side with people of all religions and races for hundreds of years.  Israel does not exist, this place is called Palestine.  But Palestine is a sacred place and in our recent history we have seen Jewish extremists claim this land as their birthright.  History unfolds and the Jewish settlers- actually many of them were refugees welcomed into Palestine- took this land and called it the state of Israel.   Not only were Palestinians forced off their land and out of their homes, but families were torn apart and murdered.  This is what the Palestinian people will never forget.

Some Palestinians became refugees while others remain in what the world now considers to be Israel and the Palestinian Territories.  They live under occupation where they are treated not like 2^nd or 3^rd class citizens but worse.  They are openly discriminated against and live under conditions most of the international community condemns.  Today, Jewish settlers continue to move into what little remains of Palestinian Territory.  These settlers are from around the world including America, who previously had not set foot on this soil, were not born there, nor were there parents or their parent’s parents born there.  They come to occupy a site they consider theirs based on ancient texts- ignoring the real families and people who call this place home.

How would you feel in this situation?  Would you negotiate with the government who did this to you and your family?  No.  Would you agree to receive a meagre percentage of land that was yours in the first place?  No.  Would you sit by quietly while more Jewish extremists settle inside what remains of Palestinian Territory?  No.  Would you accept the constant discrimination, the Separation Wall, and lack of basic rights and freedoms?  No.  And what about Gaza?  There is very little information reaching John Q Public about this place which is essentially a large prison. 

To the Arabs, Israel does not exist- it never has and never will.  It is Palestine.  It has become painfully obvious no matter what Palestine does they will never legally and peacefully achieve the justice they deserve.  The message taught to each new generation of Palestinians is this- one day we will return.  In fact, a symbol of the Palestinian pursuit of their homeland is the key.  When the Palestinians were forced from their homes they still had their house keys and have kept them for when they return home.

Please understand that Palestinians and Arabs do not hate Israelis or Americans.  But their governments are allowing human rights abuses to occur.  Many people have told me one day there will be a war.  A war that Palestinians need to fight and will happily die for.  I am beginning to understand this.

Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie