Jerusalem and Palestine

Sometimes when I travel I feel like Canada lacks history, culture, patriotism, tradition...If I were to stereotype myself and my peers I might say we are an indifferent group.  After visiting Jerusalem I am so happy I live in a country that tries to be open and accepting to all.  Yes, I am making some broad statements, but I love Canada! 

As fascinating as Jerusalem is I am happy to have left.  How can a place so significant to many religions be so full of discrimination and negativity? What happened to love being the foundation of all religions and which unites us all?  During my stay, I had many encounters that made me aware of the tension between Palestinians and Israelis. Unbeknownst to me, I look Jewish- which surprised me more than the Jews/Muslims I'm sure.  That type of labelling is strange, but I quickly got over tiptoeing around everyone.  I bought a sweatshirt that says "I love Palestine" which immediately encouraged long conversations with multiple Palestinians but also resulted in a long lecture by an Israeli who told me "all Arabs want to kill us".  Interesting. 

After spending a week in Jerusalem and the West bank I met many Palestinians and Israelis who do not agree with what is happening in Palestine care of Israel.  I will not get into the long history and all the issues in this blog, you can research it for yourself.  But I have seen the "security wall" which is 8m high (twice as high as the Berlin wall).  It is built so Palestinians have less land than was agreed on and effectively chokes off Palestine.  Palestinians call it the "discrimination wall" and I agree.  I have seen the Israeli settlements inside Palestinian territory.  The settlements have new houses, water 24/7 and heavy security.  In the West Bank, Palestinians have water 2 days a week, many have been forced out of their homes, and they cannot travel outside of Palestine without special papers that are difficult to get.  The Gaza Strip (no I didn't visit) is the most heavily populated place on the planet (people per sq meter), is surrounded by a wall, and only a handful of people can visit- making it easy for the rest of the world to forget about this tragedy.  Palestinians can’t vote- they are not a part of Israel nor are they separate.  It is very confusing but it doesn’t seem right.

I visited Ramallah (West Bank) for Nakba Day (see previous blog) to support the Palestinians.  My friend Rami took me and when we crossed the checkpoint into Palestine we practically drove into a scene straight out of BBC world news. The military was present in overwhelming numbers and full riot gear.  The protesters threw stones, had onions to their face (helps against tear gas), and the obligatory tire fire in the street. Rami and I joke that my mom doesn’t need to see me on TV so we head to the city centre where music, dancing and speeches are being held.  After a while we go to Star & Bucks to watch the events from 7 floors up and Al-Jazeera news as they broadcast from the checkpoint we were at, Gaza, the Israeli-Jordan border, the Israeli-Lebanon border and the Israeli-Syrian border.  I am shocked to learn Palestinian refugees have marched to the borders to show they want to return to their homeland.  The Israeli government says Al-Jazeera provides too much information...   

Amidst all that I also visited the birthplace of Jesus, the place of his crucifixion, burial and resurrection, the Tomb of Mary, the Western Wall, Dome of the Rock and many more historical sites that make the area such a hotbed.   

Here is a short explanation of the pics below:

• 1, 2 and 3 are pics inside the church where Jesus was said to be crucified, buried and resurrected
• 4 and 5 are from Nakba Day in Ramallah.  
• 6 and 7 are Dome of the Rock, important to Jews and Muslims alike
• 7 and 8 are views of the Old City and the graves where people have paid tens of thousands of dollars so they can be resurrected on Judgment Day...
• 9 shows the security wall from a distance (Jerusalem)
• 10 and 11 are the security wall in Bethlehem (which is a part of the West Bank)
• 12 is a poster from Nakba Day promising the return of refugees to their homes one day 

Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie

Tel Aviv: I could get used to this...

Ahhhh, Tel Aviv.  Who would have thought I would like this city so much.  But what's not to like?  The city is gorgeous with beautiful beaches, impressive promenade, great weather, shopping, cafes- and really clean.  It has a more "western"  feel to it (crosswalks, yeah!) and I easily forget I am in the middle east.  I enjoyed Tel Aviv so much I stayed for 6 days and didn't do anything else I had planned.  Instead I fixed my tan lines- the farmers tan from Egypt (neck, forearms and maybe my calves get exposure but the rest is usually covered up) and the one-peice bathing suit lines from Jordan's Dead Sea visit (still trying to be conservative amoungst some fully clothed ladies in the water).  But anything goes in Tel Aviv and I felt like I was on a proper vacation the past 6 days on the beach in my bikini and a smile on my face.  I spent 3 nights at a great hostel and 3 nights at my friend's place who I met in Cairo- thanks Tamir love you owe you!

Today I arrived in Jerusalem.  So close yet a world away from Tel Aviv.  I am staying in the Old City which is surrounded by walls that encompass the Muslim, Christian, Jewish and Armenian quarters.  When I arrived at the hostel I had a long conversation with the receptionist who is concerned about events taking place this weekend.  As I was well aware, May 15 marks the day Israel became a country- not a cause for celebration in Palestine.  With the revolutions in other countries like Egypt, there has been a call for Palestinians to have a large protest on May 15th.  Although many people want the protest to be peaceful, labels such as the 3rd Intifada (uprising) are being used which has a connotation of violence.  The plan for demonstrations on this date have been circulating for at least a month and include protests to be held all over the world and even for marches to the Israel border from surrounding countries (Egypt, Jordan, Syria and Lebanon).  Will my stay here shed some light on solutions to bring peace to Israel and Palestine...

Below are pics from Tel Aviv.  Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie

Jordan

The second I stepped out of the airport I knew Jordan was very different than Egypt.  The country seems wealthier, is cleaner, quieter and relaxed (it also a Kingdom!!).  The people are increadibly kind in a low key way.  Every day I met someone who was extremely generous and a number of times a simple question turned into an invitation for tea and even dinner (honestly, last night a 5min errand turned into a 2 hour affair). 
I have toured around Amman, Jerash, visited Petra and today the Dead Sea.  Jordan has this great system of "shared taxis" which is basically an organized form of hitchhiking.  Today I could only take the bus part of the way to the Dead Sea.  At the corner where the bus drops off are a number of guys with cars.  You pay a fee and when the car is full everyone heads to the destination (or same direction).  The buses are the same in that they do not have a set departure time- you leave when the bus is full.  This is frustrating to people who wait for a long time, but everytime I took the bus I only had to wait a few minutes. 

So, the highlights of Jordan...Obviously Petra was the most impressive (the pics don't do it justice).  Petra is an ancient city carved into the rock valleys. The ruins are impressive and the colors of the rocks are gorgeous.  I spent a full day there and was thoroughly cooked afterwards.  It was about 40 degrees with lots of hiking to spots like the cleverly named "High Place of Sacrafice".  I was covered from head to toe to keep from burning and was so hot I almost hired a donkey to take me to the Monestary.  I was happy I didn't when I saw one tourist who could not control his and so it simply went where it wanted (the donkey people don't come with you, just send you up the mountain with the donkey).  I saw another donkey slip and fall on the sandstone hill sending its passenger to the ground.  Also, on one of my last days in Cairo I went via horse to the desert behind the pyramids and one of the horses bit one of the tourists on another horse- no lie, right on the leg.  All that and the infamous Camel Experience with Bri in India and I am quite certain I will never ride an animal anywhere my own 2 legs can take me.  Anyways, Petra was great but one full day was enough for me, the heat is really insane.  Yesterday I went to a Turkish bath in Amman- amazing- and today the Dead Sea.  At the Dead Sea I couldn't stop laughing, it really is a funny experience to have your ass in the water and your legs, arms and head out of the water :)

Tomorrow I head to Israel and my first stop is Tel Aviv.  Wish me luck re the Israeli stamp- I can't have it in my passport (otherwise I can't go to Lebanon and Syria in the future) so hopefully getting the stamp on a slip of paper works.  Below are pics of Petra only. Try and see the people to understand the size of some of the structures.  Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie

PS- sorry to those of you who have been trying to get a hold of me on Skype.  The internet connection really is a challenge.  Fingers crossed we will talk soon!

Islamic Cairo

It is hard to believe but I am starting to grasp the tiniest bit of Arabic.  It has been extremely helpful and I am planning on getting an Arabic workbook to continue learning more.  However, the past 2 days have been easter holidays- who woulda thought?- so I have been slacking off on my development.  Everything is still going well- especially now that I am over my Egyptian tummy.  I must admit my face in the toilet of this hostel was not pleasant- but it could have been worse.  Just a short episode and I am good as new for a while ensha allah- god willing :)  I have spent more time touring the city the past 3 days, mainly in Islamic Cairo aka Old Cairo.  I attended a free performance of Sufi musicians and dancers.  I was blown away.  The musical talent was insane and the dancing was hypnotic.  The best thing I have done in Egypt so far.  I thought I had filmed a few minutes to post but apparently I can't work that function of my camera yet ;)  I saw a few more sights in the area too, below are some pics.  I have finally committed to leaving Egypt for a few weeks.  On May 2 I will fly to Amman and visit the sights in Jordan, head over to Israel and Palestine, then fly back to Cairo.

I have been wanting to give a breif update on the political vibe in Egypt for a while but obviously hadn't gotten around to it.  It appears the people of Egypt have won their battle now that the most corrupt have been put in jail including Mumbaric and his family.  If the stolen money is ever returned I think the people here will have a party like no other.  In the meantime, Egypt is exploding with ideas of how the New Egypt should look.  People have such enthusiasm for the future and take great pride in themselves for creating this opportunity.  "It's the revolution baby!" my Egyptian friend Gaser tells me time and time again...
 
On a serious note, the events in Syria are painfully real over here.  I meet people all the time from Syria who tell me about their past, the present and their hopes for the future.  I can't imagine having to fight so hard for basic rights and freedoms.  Egyptians believe the Syrians can do what they did.  I hope so, and I hope it happens soon.  Please do what you can to support the Syrian people in their protest for change.  I know it seems a world away but it is so important.

I hope all is well with each and every one of you.  Thinking of home but happy abroad,

Carrie

Cairo at night

As some of you know I do not take alot of photos, so last night I forced myself into tourist mode and took some shots of cairo at night.  They are kinda cool, but not sure why they all turned out this way.  The shots below are all at about 11pm on Mon night- just steps away from my hostel (Midan Talaat Harb, Nile River, Egyptian Museum).  As you can see, Cairo is really the city that never sleeps and I am in the middle of it all...Also below is some info on the arabic alphabet- which I can read and write (not words yet, just the individual letters when they come at the beginning of the word which is on the right side....its complicated).  I can also read and write the numbers too- helpful when shopping.  Arabic is not easy, especially the pronounciation since there are 3 sounds (i think) we do not use in the english language, but I am committed.  I will spend the rest of this week with my "private teacher" then I may finally go somewhere....Thinking of home but happy abroad.

Carrie

The Arabic Alphabet
Introduction to the Alphabet
• Arabic is read from right to left
• Almost all the letters in an Arabic word are joined together like hand writing
• Some letters can’t join because of their shape, but we’ll see them as they come
• There are 29 letters in the Arabic alphabet
• There is no such thing as capital letters versus small letters
• There is no such thing as printing versus hand writing , Arabic is all hand writing
• All the letters in the alphabet are consonants
• Vowels are separate marks that go on top or underneath these letters
• The letters are shown below
ج
Jeem (J)
ث
Thaa (TH)
ت
Taa (T)
ب
Baa (B)
ا
Aleph (A)
ر
Raa (R)
ذ
Dhaal (DH)
د
Daal (D)
خ
Khaa (KH)
ح
Haa (H)
ض
Daad (D)
ص
Saad (S)
ش
Sheen (SH)
س
Seen (S)
ز
Zaa (Z)
ف
Faa (F)
غ
Ghein (GH)
ع
Ein (?)
ظ
Zaa (Z)
ط
Taa (T)
ن
Noon (N)
م
Meem (M)
ل
Laam (L)
ك
Kaaf (K)
ق
Qaaf (Q)
ي
Yaa (Y)
ء
Hamza (A)
ه
Haa (H)
و
Waw (W)
• Each letter has 4 forms (which look very similar to each other)
o when you write the letter by itself
o when it comes in the beginning of a word
o when it comes in the middle of a word
o when it comes at the end of a word

Charming Cairo

After over a week in Cairo I have finally decided on some rough plans.  I will be staying in Cairo at least another week- surprise!  As you can gather from previous posts I have been really enjoying myself here.  So much so that I have extended my visa and have multi-entry status.  Now, I can come and go from Egypt as often as I like over the next 6 months- meaning Cairo will be my home base in the middle east.  But before I go anywhere I have committed to 1 week of arabic lessons with a guy here at the hostel.  Starting on Sat we will meet every day for a few hours and he will teach me.  I am starting to pick up a few phrases but arabic is really tough.  I think I will enjoy my visits to other countries more if I can get a basic understanding of the language :)  Yes, many people speak english- thank Allah- but if they don't things get pretty challenging.  So nothing really new to tell you about.  Hopefully more travel stories when I take off (possibly to Beruit) in a week or so.  Thinking of home but happy abroad.

Carrie     

A few things about Egyptians

After nearly a week in Cairo I can honestly say I am falling in love with this city.  I have not visitied many of the tourist attractions, but I have walked around, met some locals, and talked endlessly about The Revolution.  I feel like I am really learning about the spirit of Egyptians.  Stereotypes I didn't even know I had are being dissolved.  Couple things you may want to know: 

• In my last post I said I was coming home at 5am.  Do not read anything into this, it is normal.  The day ends late.  Lunch could be at 4pm and dinner at 9pm.  Typically I have been going back to the hostel at 2am but that particular night was the weekend :)
• Egyptians are some of the most friendly and hospitable people I have met.  Sure, there may be some unwanted attention or persistant sales techniques at times, but it is not a problem.  In fact, I am almost overwhelmed by the generosity and kindness of the people here. 
• I have never felt unsafe and it is fine to go out at night- even alone.  Evenings are my favorite time in Cairo, the city is stunning and the streets are alive.  
• At the protest last Fri there were men, women, children, foreigners and then some.  As I walked around with Ayman people would ask him for a drink of his water- which he would provide without hesitation.  The people take care of one another.
• Egyptians are very proud.  Their patriotism is contageous- I even have my own ``I love Egypt`` shirt now.
• Traffic is crazy, but I am getting the hang of it.  I think it adds to the uniqueness of Cairo.

This is only the surface of what makes Cairo so charming.  I am having such an increadible time here, it is difficult to think of going anywhere else- but I will eventually.  Below is a link to some more Egyptian music, this time more classic and some photos from The Revolution care of Gaser.  Thinking of home but happy abroad,

Carrie

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7tvGuw7tCw