Lebanon

The bus from Damascus drops me somewhere on the outskirts of Beirut.  I try asking some roadside fruit vendors for directions but they can’t understand my terrible Arabic and I can’t understand them.  Just when I think a taxi is necessary (I am really disliking taxi drivers all over the world), a guy on a dirt bike rides up and asks me in English if he can help.   I explain where I want to go he tells me to hop on.  It’s an offer I won’t refuse even if I am carrying a 40lbs backpack and a small daypack.  We ride off into the madness that is Beirut traffic- sans helmet (it’s how we roll in the ME).

Lebanon is an interesting place full of opposites.  From Beirut to Tripoli, Porsche to tanks, beaches to mountains, historical ruins to natural wonders, guns to Gucci, Hezbollah to Hariri, Muslim to Christian, cosmetic surgery to headscarves- you can find it all in Lebanon.  It is a welcomed change and I really enjoy my 2 weeks exploring the country. 

Lebanon advertises itself as “Paris of the East” and seems to be working hard at improving tourism.  Downtown Beirut is probably the safest place on the planet- you practically trip over army, police and private security here.  I visit Beirut, Tyre, Baalbek, Byblos, Jeita Grotto (no pics allowed but the most beautiful sight!), Tripoli, BCharre, Cedars and the Qadisha Valley.  I share a lot of laughs with my French friend Celine, daydream of flings with Lebanese soldiers, and live the life of an “adventurer”- new vocab care of Celine J.  

Below are a few things I have noticed as I travel the Middle East that may entertain you:

·         Passengers on the bus aren`t supposed to smoke, but it is OK for the driver.

·         Sometimes I see ladies who purchase items from the street below their apartment by lowering a bucket (from the window or balcony) with the money inside.  The goods are deposited inside and the bucket is raised back up.

·         Electricity isn`t a sure thing without a generator.

·         Apparently the liquids and gels rule on airplanes does not exist.

·         Maps of the ME do not have Israel on them- it is Palestine.

·         At night many people drive without their headlights but I still haven’t figured out why.

I recently sat down and listed the countries I have visited in my life-25 and counting.  Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie

Beirut

Beirut- Old Holiday Inn leftover from cival war (on the ground floor inside there are numerous tanks, not sure if it is some kind of miltary post now??)

Tyre (pic of how some of the Muslim ladies go to the beach...)

Baalbeck

Byblos

Jeita Grotto (the only pic I was allowed to take) |Check out more photos of this at:
http://www.google.com/search?q=jeita+grotto+lebanon&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=471&prmd=ivns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=XcUuTsl31LWEB5uv1Ew&sqi=2&ved=0CCIQsAQ

Tripoli

BCharre

Syria- Part 2

So what are my thoughts on Syria’s revolution?  2 weeks in the country does not make me an expert but I am in support of it for a number of reasons.  

Simply put, the people should be able to question, scrutinize and criticise their government- not so under Assad.  Granted, he may be more liberal than his father (yet he was elected 5 times??) but that sets the bar low.  Maybe that is why the country seems divided- the current leader is better than the former and the memories of the former are still fresh. 

Although it is impossible to control information nowadays, Assad’s government is still trying.  Sure, Facebook is banned and it is not uncommon for the internet to be turned off, but that is minor.  What is more serious is manipulating the news- in this case to make the uprising seem smaller and made up of rebel groups instead of real civilians.  While I was in Syria I found it difficult to know what was really happening in the country.  I heard a variety of versions of the status of Hama- but I saw the truth with my own 2 eyes. But mainstream media in Canada and elsewhere is also manipulated- although more subtly... 

One guy I spent a lot of time speaking with (mainly via Google Translate) told me he is neutral in regards to the revolution yet he wants to leave Syria to pursue a better life.  He tells me Syrians need permission to leave their country and must return by a set date.  People who leave without permission are labelled traitors and can never return.  I wonder what will happen to the tens of thousands of refugees in Turkey and Lebanon.  Obviously the situation is serious if they would risk becoming refugees. 

But forget about the strict rule of Assad, the people simply want a better standard of living.  For a country that claims to have such riches, it sounds as though those riches don’t reach much of the population.  Perhaps this is why there is less anti-government sentiment in the privileged cities of Aleppo and Damascus as opposed to the rest of the country.

What do I think the future holds for Syria?  I am a bit pessimistic.  Unlike Egypt, the division of the people is not encouraging.  The police and military are brutal and my guess is you will not see many of them defecting from their ranks.  But both sides of the uprising have lost credibility in my eyes.  There is an abundance of rumours that pro-government supporters are paid/threatened to attend the rallies you see on TV. And yes, the pro-Assad demonstrations did not feel totally authentic. Yet I know of one person who was told he would be paid if he took a gun and went to support the anti-government movement.  

I think Assad will stay where he is unless international pressure forces him out.  Unfortunately, a number of governments are quite happy with him and it may take the loss of many lives to instigate change.  I hope the toll of this revolution will be worth it in the end.

My visit to Syria was one of the most interesting experiences yet and I am glad I went.  I promise the next blog will be more fun.  Below are some pictures of Aleppo, Palmyra and Damascus.  Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie



Aleppo- Citadel

Aleppo- Souq (too early for Aleppeans)

Aleppo- City Centre

Palmyra- look Bri, no people

Palymra- Tomb

Damascus- Umayyad Mosque

Damascus- Sayyida Ruqayya Mosque (Shiite)

Syria- Part 1

 You are probably wondering why I would risk going to Syria.  You may not understand, but I was curious.  I was curious about the country that strictly controls information flow in and out.  I was curious about the uprising and the many versions of the truth.  And I was curious to learn what it is like to live in a country in the midst of conflict.  Sure, the historical sites were attractive, but at this point I have seen and will continue to see a lot of old things- citadel, big mosque, souq and repeat.  

The journey begins when I get off the bus at the Turkey/Syria border.  I am whisked into a taxi with 3 other people already inside waiting.  We proceed through the formalities of border crossing where I hold up the group at every check point.  Obviously it is suspicious that a foreigner wants to go to Syria at this time.  I am interrogated, my belongings thoroughly searched and a special note handwritten into my passport stating I carry a computer.  As I officially cross into Syria I am highly aware that I am leaving behind the rights and freedoms I am accustomed to.  In fact, I am less worried about personal injury than I am of being detained in prison, accused of being an s-p-y.    

The first town I arrive in is such a pleasant experience.  The locals say to me “you are always welcome in Syria” and give me food for my bus ride to Aleppo.  Enroute, the bus stops at numerous army checkpoints but once in Aleppo everything seems normal.  I take a few days to visit the sites but it is not long before I am speaking frankly with a couple locals about the civil unrest.  At first there is caution on both sides- Syrians aren’t supposed to criticize their government and I would hate to open my mouth and find out I was talking to the secret police (no joke). 

After Aleppo I head to Hama hoping to make it my base while visiting Palmyra and Crac des Chevaliers.  I get off the bus and try to get a cab to the hotel I plan to stay at, but no one wants to take me.  Finally, one driver and an English speaking local agree to take me- and I discover the problem. Hama is a war zone.  As we drive we see gangs of armed people in the streets, the police and army supported by the air force overhead, black plumes of smoke from tire fires, road closures formed by rocks and razor wire, while the city itself is like a ghost town.  The English speaking local tells me he is going to Damascus today and he just put his mom on a bus to Aleppo.  The people have fled from Hama and he advises me to do the same.  It wasn’t long ago (1982) when Assad Sr. shelled the city of Hama killing tens of thousands in another kind of uprising.  I decide I don’t need to stick around to see if his son decides to repeat history.  But getting back to the bus station is easier said than done and along the way we hear gunshots that sound so close all 3 of us duck lower in the cab.  I nervously wait for the bus to Damascus and wonder how 2 cities only a couple hours apart could be reacting so differently.

Once in Damascus, you would swear there wasn’t a problem.  I resume my sightseeing with a bit of prodding of locals I feel I can trust.  I take a couple days to go to Palmyra but I make sure I am in Damascus on Friday where I am told is safest during post prayer demonstrations. Interestingly, in Damascus I see pro-government rallies and notice pictures of Assad are so common it is almost like he is worshipped instead of an elected official.  Reluctantly, I give up on travel in Syria and take a bus from Damascus to Beirut.

My humble opinion of the Syrian Revolution will follow in a separate blog along with the pics (because they take forever to upload).  I have finally posted a handful of photos to go with the previous post on Mount Nemrut, so check it out. Currently I am in Lebanon but soon I fly to Iraqi Kurdistan where I will make my way overland back to Turkey.  I am falling behind on my blogging and hope I can remember everything I want to tell you! Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie 

Mount Nemrut

One of the places in Turkey I was really looking forward to visiting was Mount Nemrut, a mountain with the remains of an old temple topped by an earthquake.  However, getting there by bus was going to be a challenge and very time consuming.  I learn there are tours that run the route I want to go, so I grit my teeth, haggle real hard, and as a result of my irresistible charm I am able to get a 2-day tour for only a few dollars more than doing it on my own.  

After thoroughly enjoying the sunrise and ruins of Mount Nemrut, it is unfortunate but the oldest known site of civilization was a bit of a yawn.  Gobleki Tepe is a new excavation and could be evidence of when mankind first became civilized.  It is an exciting discovery and adds stiff competition to claim title for the Oldest Continually Occupied Settlement in the World- Harran, Aleppo, Damascus and many more all vie for this.   

Finally I arrive in Sanliurfa where my only intention is to stay overnight before crossing into Syria.  But I do manage to squeeze in a visit to the cave where Abraham is said to have been born.  Aside from that, I prepare myself for the interrogation that is sure to come being the only foreigner entering Syria.  I can imagine the expletives coming from your mouth but at the time of posting this blog I have already been to Syria and have arrived safely in Lebanon, so there is no need to worry and it is too late to change my mind J.  You will hear all about my Syrian experience once I tear myself away from Beirut to write it down.

Unfortunately, for the past 2 weeks access to internet has been limited and painfully slow.  That is why there are no pics to go with this post.  Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie

Fethiye and Cappadocia

It has been 3 months since I left home and although it is hard to believe I am not home sick, it may be understandable when you consider I have spent the past 2 weeks in paradise.  Fethiye is a town on the Mediterranean with piercing blue water, green hills, and gorgeous men.  Yes, Turkish men are very handsome.  Thankfully I met the perfect wingman at my pension- my friend Ray.  You would think we make an unlikely pair, him being a 50 yr old gay Pilipino/Canadian/American, but we have similar tastes...But really, hanging with Ray was unbelievably fun and unforgettable.

Being in Fethiye reminds me of when I was in Greece 9 yrs ago (gasp!) so I decide to relive my youth and rent a motorbike.  I had a blast cruising the coastline and causing havoc on the road.  I also did a boat trip to some islands, spent a lot of time on the beach, and ate the best food.  My favourite meals were choosing fresh fish at the fish market, walking a few steps to the restaurant of our choice, and having it cooked and served with salad and bread- for only $5 total.  The icing on the cake was the pension I stayed at- private room with ensuite, breakfast and a killer view for about $15 a night.  Understandably I am heartbroken to be on a 12 hr bus ride out of town...

I arrive in Gerome, a small town in Cappadocia famous for its unique landscape.  I spend a couple days checking Cappadocia out, one day via the backend of a motorbike.  That is the beauty of travelling solo, people are always inviting me to go places and do things with them.  Of course I use good judgment and I am usually rewarded with my most memorable experiences.  The local guy who tours me around Cappadocia is really great but I have my first (and hopefully last) motorbike accident.  We are both totally fine, another memorable experience J

Thinking of home but happily abroad,

Carrie

Fethiye

Cappadocia